Most new homes come with a frameless builder’s mirror glued or clipped above the vanity, and it’s usually the first thing people want gone. Installing an LED mirror in its place is a two-trade job: you, or a handyperson, take the old glass off and fix the brackets, and a licensed electrical worker puts in the wiring point and connects the mirror.
This guide follows the job in the order it really happens. If you’ve chosen a mirror cabinet instead, the order is the same; the cabinet’s own fixing steps are in How to Install a Mirror Cabinet.
Updated 20 October 2026 · Written by Ella James, InVogue Mirrors & Bathware · Product details come from our installation guides and cabinet manuals
Why Trust InVogue Mirrors & Bathware? InVogue is a mirror and bathware brand trusted in over 20,000 homes, specialising in LED bathroom mirrors and mirror cabinets. The recommendations in this guide come from bathroom design principles — proportion, balance and light — rather than passing trends.
Electrical work: our LED mirrors and mirror cabinets are hardwired and must be installed by a licensed electrical worker. This guide explains what to plan and ask for. It is general information, not installation instructions.
Quick Answer
Mark where the mirror will hang and have a licensed electrical worker put the wiring point behind it. Fix the wall brackets into studs, noggins or masonry, never plasterboard alone, then hang the mirror while the licensed electrical worker connects it. If an old mirror is there, undo its clips or cut the glue pads with wire first.
- Clipped mirrors lift out once the top clips are undone. Glued ones come off by sawing through the glue pads with wire, never by levering.
- Tape the glass and work with two people, gloves and eye protection.
- Brackets go into a stud, noggin or masonry. Never plasterboard alone.
- Our mirrors hang on 1 to 3 bars depending on size, with one wall bracket under each bar.
- Size up to the vanity width where you can. Check the new mirror covers any patch the old one hid.
First, Work Out What's Holding the Old Mirror
Look at the edges first. Clips, or a channel along the bottom, mean it lifts out easily. Glass tight to the wall with nothing visible means it's glued.
Then knock on the wall. Plasterboard over studs sounds hollow between them; brick or block sounds solid. Plenty of bathrooms have tiles over plasterboard, which feels hard but is still hollow behind. That decides how the old mirror comes off and what the new brackets can fix into.
| Wall type | Removing the old mirror | New brackets fix into | Get help when |
|---|---|---|---|
| Painted plasterboard | Glue often pulls the paper face off | Studs or noggins behind the board | No stud where a bracket lands |
| Tiles over plasterboard | Glue holds the tile glaze; levering cracks tiles | Studs or noggins, drilled through the tile | Tiles are cracked or drummy |
| Brick, block or concrete | Glue holds hard: wire and patience | Wall plugs into solid masonry | Render is crumbling |
| Steel stud | As for plasterboard | The studs or noggins, with fixings suited to steel | You're unsure what the frame is |
Fixing rules from our LED mirror installation guides. Your builder confirms what is behind your lining.
How to Remove a Glued or Clipped Builder's Mirror Safely
Slow and supported is the safe way. A large sheet of glass letting go suddenly is the real hazard, more than any tool. Wear cut-resistant gloves, safety glasses, long sleeves and closed shoes, and pad the vanity top with a folded blanket or the carton from your new mirror. Then run strong tape across the face of the glass in a criss-cross. If it cracks, the tape holds the pieces together.
Clipped mirrors
- Your helper holds the glass flat against the wall.
- Undo the top clips (or the side clips) and move them clear.
- Tilt the top towards you slightly and lift the mirror up out of the bottom clips together.
- Carry it on its edge, never flat.
Glued mirrors
- Start a gap at a top corner with a thin plastic wedge, not a metal blade.
- Feed strong wire or braided fishing line behind the corner and, gloves on, saw down and across through the glue pads.
- Add wedges as the gap opens, so the weight never hangs on the last few pads.
- When the last pad lets go, lower the mirror onto the padded vanity together.
Some mirrors have so much adhesive there's no gap to start from, or the wire simply won't move. That's where you stop. Levering with a pry bar is how mirrors crack across the middle and splashback tiles break, and a glazier costs less than retiling.
Designer Insight: in one renovation thread we followed, an 1100 mm glued mirror had only about 140 mm of tiled wall either side, and the owner wanted a cabinet in its place. Nothing could be decided until the glass was off and the wall checked. Take the old mirror down before you settle on the new size.
Patching and Making Good (Including Tiles Cut to the Old Mirror)
Glue blobs on tiles usually scrape off with a plastic scraper. On plasterboard the paper face often comes away with the glue and needs patching and sealing before paint.
The bigger surprise is a wall that was only tiled up to the old mirror, with bare board behind the glass. The new mirror has to cover that, or the patch gets tiled or painted. This is where people get caught. We generally recommend the largest size that's no wider than your vanity. When in doubt, size up, if the space allows it; if a side wall, tiles or the door make it tight, go one size down. Our sizes come in steps, so the new mirror can still be narrower than a builder's mirror that ran the full width or past it. Measure the patch before you choose, with our mirror size guide or the "Check it fits your vanity" tool on any mirror product page.
Leave the final coat of paint until after the electrical worker's first visit. Their opening for the cable will sit behind the mirror, but it still needs patching.
The Order of Work: Electrical Worker First, Then the Brackets
The wiring point sits behind the new mirror, so the electrical worker needs to know exactly where the mirror will hang before anything is fixed to the wall. Our installation guides use this order for mirrors and cabinets alike.
- Mark the new outline. Our mirror height guide puts the centre about 1500 to 1650 mm above the floor, and the bottom edge 100 to 200 mm above the top of the tap or splashback, never less than 100 mm.
- The licensed electrical worker places the wiring point near the centre of the outline and confirms the bathroom zone and RCD protection.
- Patch and paint. Add a noggin now if a bracket has nothing to fix into.
- Fix the wall brackets, one under each hanging bar.
- The licensed electrical worker connects the cable with the supply isolated while a helper holds the mirror. Hang it together, restore power and test.
In a full renovation the wiring point belongs at rough-in, before the wall is lined or tiled, so book the electrical worker early.
Where the New Mirror's Fixings Land: Studs, Noggins and Solid Walls
Every wall bracket screws into a timber stud or noggin, or plugs into brick or masonry. Plasterboard can't hold an LED mirror or cabinet on its own, and tiles don't change that, because a tile is only as strong as the board behind it.
The catch is that studs are rarely where the brackets want to be. They're typically 450 or 600 mm apart, while the bars are set by the mirror's size. Find the studs with a detector, mark them, and lay your bracket positions over them. Where a bracket falls between studs, a horizontal noggin gives it something to bite. On a finished wall that means a small opening, best made while the electrical worker is already working behind the mirror's outline.
On tiles, drill through with a tile bit. Our guides use a 5.5 mm tile or masonry bit for the wall plugs supplied, and every fixing comes in the carton. Check for hidden cables and pipes first, especially near the old light switch and below a wall mixer.
Hanging Bars by Model and Size
Our LED mirrors hang on horizontal bars on the back, and each bar hooks down into its own wall bracket. Two bars means two brackets and two solid fixing points. Before you drill, lay the mirror face-down on its packaging and measure the bars on your own mirror, from the top edge and the centre line.
| Model | Sizes (mm) | Hanging bars | Bar position | Orientation |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Amalfi, Amalfi Ambient, Capri (round) | Ø600, Ø700, Ø800 | 1 | Upper back | As drawn |
| Amalfi (round) | Ø1000, Ø1200, Ø1500 | 2 | Upper back | As drawn |
| Santander (arch) | 1200 × 800, 1500 × 1000 | 2 | Upper back | As drawn |
| Lucca (pebble) | 760 × 890, 940 × 1090 | 2 | Upper back | As drawn |
| Venice (rectangle) | 900 × 700 | 2 | Upper back | As drawn |
| Venice (rectangle) | 1200 × 800, 1500 × 1000, 1800 × 1000 | 3 | Upper back | As drawn |
| Florence (rounded rectangle) | 900 × 700, 1200 × 800, 1500 × 1000 | 2 | Upper back | As drawn |
| Florence (rounded rectangle) | 1800 × 1000 | 3 | Upper back | As drawn |
| Riviera, Riviera Ambient, Valencia, Positano, Positano Ambient, Portofino, Onde | All sizes | 1 | Upper back | As drawn |
| Lune (half-moon) | 667 × 1000 | 2 | Top and bottom | Straight edge left or right |
Source: our LED mirror installation guides, from the factory drawings.
Hang it with two people, lowering every bar onto its bracket until it sits fully home. If it rocks, lift it off together and look for a missed bracket or a trapped cable.
Each model has its own guide on its product page, for example the Santander installation guide (PDF) and the Venice guide (PDF).
The Power: Who Does It and When
A licensed electrical worker does all of it. A builder's mirror has no power, so the swap needs a new wiring point behind the glass. Our mirrors are hardwired, 220 to 240 V, with no plug, and each has a pre-attached 3-core 0.75 mm² cable that exits the back near the centre: 1 m long, or 1.5 m on the Venice 1800 × 1000.
The electrical worker also checks the position against the bathroom zone rules and the RCD protection, and advises on switching. Our warranty asks for licensed installation, following our installation guide.
For cable positions, plug-in versus hardwired and the rules where you live, read Do LED mirrors need an electrical worker?
Installing a Mirror Cabinet Instead
A cabinet is the most common upgrade from a builder’s mirror. The order of work is the same: old glass off, wiring point first, then the fixings. Four things change.
- How it hangs. Our cabinets sit on a bottom bracket with top brackets fixed through the cabinet top, rather than hanging bars. The Amalfi Cabinet is different: it hangs on two wall brackets.
- Depth and doors. Surface-mounted, our cabinets stand 117 to 122 mm off the wall, and the doors swing out to 110°. Check they clear a tall tap, a shower screen and the room door.
- Cable. A fixed 1050 mm lead leaves the back of the body at the top edge, centred, and the licensed electrical worker makes the join in the wall behind the body.
- Recessing. Most of our cabinets can be recessed into a framed opening cut to the factory rough-in size. The Amalfi Cabinet is surface-mount only.
For the step-by-step, surface-mounted or recessed, read How to Install a Mirror Cabinet. For wall depth and stud bays, see Recessed vs Surface-Mounted Mirror Cabinets.
Common Mistakes
- Levering the old mirror off. A pry bar against glass cracks mirrors and splashback tiles.
- Working alone. Our guides say two people, for removal and for hanging.
- Fixing brackets before the electrical worker's first visit. The wiring point has to sit inside the outline, so brackets come second.
- Trusting plasterboard anchors. Find the studs or add a noggin.
- Choosing the size before the old mirror is off. A narrower mirror can leave bare wall showing at the sides.
- Drilling blind. Check for cables and pipes before every hole.
Frequently Asked Questions
How to fit a LED mirror?
Mark the outline, have a licensed electrical worker place the wiring point behind it, fix one wall bracket under each hanging bar into a stud, noggin or masonry, then hang the mirror with a helper while the licensed electrical worker connects it. Restore the power and test.
How are LED mirrors mounted?
Ours hang on 1 to 3 horizontal bars on the back, depending on size. Each bar hooks down into its own wall bracket, and each bracket is fixed into the wall frame or masonry.
How to hang a 30kg mirror on a plasterboard wall?
Don’t rely on the plasterboard. Fix every bracket into a timber stud or noggin, or plug it into masonry, and lift with two people. If no stud falls where a bracket goes, a noggin goes in behind the lining.
How high should a bathroom mirror be from the sink?
Leave 100 to 200 mm between the top of the tap (or splashback) and the bottom of the mirror, never less than 100 mm. As a guide, the centre of the mirror ends up about 1500 to 1650 mm above the floor.
How do you remove a bathroom mirror that's glued to the wall?
Tape the face of the glass, have a helper hold it, then work strong wire or braided line behind a top corner and saw down through the glue pads while plastic wedges keep the gap open. Never lever against the glass. If the wire won't pass or the glass starts to flex, stop and call a glazier.
Can I hang an LED mirror on plasterboard?
Not on plasterboard alone. Every bracket must screw into a timber stud or noggin, or be plugged into brick or masonry. If no stud falls where a bracket goes, a noggin goes in behind the lining. On a finished wall that means a small opening, patched and hidden behind the mirror.
Can I replace a builder's mirror with a mirror cabinet?
Yes. A surface-mounted cabinet fixes into the same structure as a mirror and stands 117 to 122 mm off the wall, depending on the model, so check the doors clear your tap and any shower screen. Most of our cabinets can also be recessed into an opening cut to the factory rough-in size; the Amalfi Cabinet is surface-mount only.
Who connects the power to a new LED mirror?
A licensed electrical worker. Our LED mirrors and cabinets are hardwired, 220 to 240 V, with no plug. The electrical worker places the wiring point behind where the mirror will hang before you fix the brackets, then connects the cable while a helper holds the mirror. It is not a DIY step.
Do I need to patch the wall before the new mirror goes up?
Only where it will show. Make good any torn plasterboard paper or glue scars, and check the new mirror covers whatever the old one hid. Choose the largest size the vanity takes. The nearest size can still be narrower than a full-width builder's mirror, so measure the bare patch first.
Can I hang a landscape LED mirror portrait?
Hang it the way its installation guide shows. The hanging bars, cable exit and touch buttons are placed for that orientation, so turning a mirror can leave the buttons somewhere awkward. The Lune is the exception and hangs with its straight edge on either side. Ask us before ordering if you need another way round.
Designer's Cheat Sheet
Designer's Cheat Sheet
- ✔ Clips visible? → Undo the top clips, lift out with a helper
- ✔ Glued? → Tape the glass, wire through the glue pads, plastic wedges
- ✔ Wire won't move? → Stop and call a glazier
- ✔ Power? → Licensed electrical worker, before the brackets go up
- ✔ Fixings? → Studs, noggins or masonry, never plasterboard alone
- ✔ Size? → As wide as the vanity allows. Cover the old patch.
Conclusion
The swap is a day's work spread over two electrical worker visits. What makes it go well is sequence: glass off with care, outline marked, the licensed electrical worker in before the brackets, every fixing into something solid. Still choosing? Our bathroom mirror buying guide covers shape, size and lighting.
Where To Next?
- Related guides: Do LED Mirrors Need an Electrical Worker?, How High Should You Hang a Bathroom Mirror?, How to Choose the Right Mirror Size for Your Vanity and Recessed vs Surface-Mounted Mirror Cabinets
- Fitting a cabinet: How to Install a Mirror Cabinet
- Still deciding: Are LED Mirrors Worth It? The Honest Pros and Cons
- Once it’s up: How to Clean an LED Bathroom Mirror
- Warranty: Mirror and cabinet warranty
- No storage needed: the full Smart Mirrors range
- Need storage: the full Mirror Cabinets range
Need help? Ask us with a photo.
Send a photo of your wall, vanity or plans and we will tell you what fits, or email info@invoguemirrors.co.nz.
